Iceland 2016

July

Day 1

zürich - Keflavik

Flying from Zürich over Copenhagen to our destination: Keflavik!

Kind of a nightmare with a one and a half years old child sitting on your legs for the all travel (if you have a child like mine, not cuddly at all and needing his own space from his very first day of life, accept my suggestion: book him a seat even if under 2 years he/she could fly for free, it's worth your mental (and phisical!) health!)

We land at 9 p.m., just walk over to the Airport Hotel Aurora Star and try to convince our son to sleep altough outside the sun is still high in the sky (well, if I'm totally honest, our son NEVER wants to go to sleep, but the sun was a reason more to avoid it)

Day 2

keflavik - reykjavik - stykkisholmur - hellnar

As usual I wake up earlier than my 2 boys (my husband and my son) -at least on holidays because I'm too exicited! - and go for a short walk around the hotel. The weather is perfect and I can see Snaefellsnesjökull at the horizon and all of a sudden I realize: I'm really going to get married in Iceland tomorrow! In the church which made us think about getting married!

Short call with my father (a 67 years old man which for the first time flew alone to Iceland just for me, his only daughter, very proud of him) to decide when to meet in Hellnar. Before going back to the hotel to wake up my boys, I stop-over at Joe & the Juice to get some fresh juices and a couple of cappuccinos to start the new day :)

 

We leave for Hellnar at around 12, on the way my husband "Why don't we QUICKLY stop in Reykjavik?", ok...let's do that, I hate when things don't follow plans, especially MY plans ;) 

The quick stop lasts a couple of hours and we have a fantastic lunch with salmon marinated in kind of a mango-vegetable mix in the city center. Then we drive further to Hellnar, or better said, first Stykkisholmur, to meet our pastor for the first time.

I'm quite nervous, always have the feeling something will go wrong, or that , altough we paid, maybe the pastor doesn't even exist (even if we spoke to someone at the phone, but who knows)

 

Several hours later, with more than half an hour delay (which is a huge delay for my new acquired swiss mentality), we reach Stykkisholmur Church and meet Gunnar, our pastor.

I thought we would get kind of a religion exam, instead of that Gunnar asks us about us, how we met, about our son, in few words: just great!

I get the feeling Gunnar and us have been knowing each other for a very long time and it is a super special gift to get married from such a nice, warm and positive person.

After further few details about the cerimony the day after, we say good bye to Gunnar and go further to Hellnar.

 

On the way I decide to call my father (and here it comes the little tragedy) to check where he is and he says me he has reached our hotel in Hellnar but could not find his own one (which is somewhere else because when he decided to come to our wedding as only guest it was already overbooked in ours) to take the hotel keys: I panic! And wonder why in all world I have to save him again from his "take it easy" mentality. The hotel reception closes at 19:30, it is 19:45 (panic!), I call the hotel and thanks God someone is still there and wait for me to take up the keys.

 

At 20:30 we are in Hellnar and enjoy a wonderful dinner together.

So strange to see my father in Iceland and at the same time: so good!

After all we passed through in our life, he is now here, in the land of my dreams and also of his won dreams (since he was a teenager, reading Jules Vernes' "Journey to the centre of the earth")

 

After hiding my wedding dress from my husband in the bathroom and a quick chat with my best friends I go to bed, quite excited, but also exhausted. Sleep deep and peacefully :)

Day 3

Hellnar

Getting married in Iceland

There we are: the day of our wedding in Iceland! :)

Cerimony will be at 11:30, we wake up around 9, go for breakfast with my two boys and then: get ready! I tested make up and hair a couple of times before (on my own) and this time comes out even better :)

When I go out of the room with the dress to take the car to the church all people stare at me: cool feeling, I'm the bride!

My father is already waiting in front of the church, the photographer Larus with his son (assistant photographer!) too.

Gunnar , our pastor, is already inside the church, all dressed up. His wife gave a quick cleaning to the church, which is mostly closed.

My husband goes inside the church to wait for me; my father, my son and I walk to the entrance and I go inside, hand in hand with my oldest and my little one.

I do not realize anything, I do not see the wonderful blue church's ceeling, I just see my husband, waiting for me.

We sit in front of each other, as the tradition wants in Iceland, me on the left, my husband on the right side.

The cerimony is in English, but the prayers in Icelandic, since Gunnar told us he can pray "better" in his mother language. On our knees in front of him and his hands on our heads, I let the pray flow through me, it was quite a mystic feeling.

After saying "Yes, I do" "Yes,  I will", we go out of the church.

A perfect personal cerimony, just with the most important men in my life.

We then go all together to the beach to take some shots with my father and my son too, before going for the wedding photo session. I walk barefoot on the stones, the sea is there, I feel free, exactly the way I wanted my wedding day to be.

Going back to the car, we meet a group of Italians, who start singing "Fratelli d'Italia" for us, how funny ( and embarassing!).

After leaving my son and my father at the hotel, my husband and I go for the photoshooting for a couple of hours. Larus looks like a real Viking, is very funny and gives us suggestions for the photos like " now I want a very intense Viking face" (don't know if we really managed).

I keep walking around with my hiking shoes under the dress, it was a great idea and no one noticed anyway ;)

Back at the church, my husband shoots some drone videos around me in wedding dress (and will repeat this later since forgot to save them!) and then we go to the hotel, where we find granfather and grandson sleeping peacefully in our bed.

I take my wedding dress out and we go for a walk before dinner.

Perfect day.

Day 4

Snaefellsness peninsula

Woke up relatively late after"fighting" with my son the day before to convince him to sleep (never sleeps until 11 p.m. , always been like that and guess it will never change). After a super yummybreakfast in our hotel we drive to the hotel where my father stays to go around together. During the travel to Stykkisholmur my dad tells us he woke up early and went the street up the Snaefellsjökull glacier with his car (no four wheel drive, car switching off every now and then on normal streets , if I would have told him the same when I was 18 I would have got home arrest until now - I'm 35 by the way) and was a bit disappointed not being able to reach the summit of the glacier (by car???🙄).

Anyway, after a walk in Stykkisholmur up the hill/rock in front of the port, with a wonderful view over the West Fjords we have lunch in a nice empty little restaurant and try pasta with mussels ( you can get the best food ever in Iceland in terms of fish, but please do not try pasta, it was more kind of a soup than what we Italians mean with pasta with mussels). 
Afterwards we proceed towards Kirkjufell waterfall and park our car there leaving my dad and my son in the car since the little one was sleeping.
My husband and I enjoy 10 min "Zweisamkeit" as the Germans say (meaning kind of "loneliness for two", quite a nice word, don't know if any other language has this kind of expression) until we realize my dad and son are blocked in the car and it's too warm: the little one is crying and my dad going crazy.
Later we bring my dad to his hotel and going back to ours decide to drive up the Snaefellsjökull glacier too. It's after 9 p.m. , the weather wonderful and the landscape magnificent: glacier, sea, mountains in all the existing green and red tones possible. I thank the universe for this gift.

Day 5

Hellnar - hrnaunfossar- bifröst

Here we are: today my dad is leaving to fly back to Rome (I am still sad about it, I will briefly change my mind at the next stop). Since the flight is late at night, we will spend the day together and decide to meet at Hraunfossar, quite famous waterfalls which we have not yet seen, although it's our third time in Iceland (actually fourth for my husband). Every time we visit Iceland, there are places we want to see again and places we still have to discover. There is still so much to do, to see and to "breath in", that I guess we will never be really done with this country. We reach Hraunfossar, my father is already there since half an hour and we find him discussing with a guy because of the way he parked (which was really not good). Finally I convince him to let me park the car somewhere else; he is also quite stressed since the car repeatedly didn't want to start the all morning ( I won't spent many word on the company he rented the car from but really: what the hell are you renting? I would have asked the money back if I had been my father).

We visit the waterfalls, take some photos and then say goodbye to my dad, hoping he will reach the airport safe (indeed he did).

Afterwards we drive to our new destination on the route to the North: Bifröst.

Bifröst is actually a university little town and our hotel room in July was probably a student flat until a month before. There was quite a strange and sad feeling walking through the corridors of the hotel (or dormitory), like a ghost city, but the room was big and clean.

In Norse mythology Bifröst is a burning rainbow bridge that reaches between the realm of the Gods and Earth. For us the name just reflected our feeling about the place : Bi =double + frost = freezing.

After a quick dinner and a round at the playground, we went back to our students flat.

 

Day 6

akranes - Deildartunguhver - BORGARNES

The day after is quite...how to say: relaxing (=boring).

Based on our Iceland guide book, we decide to go to Akranes, a little town on the west coast. We try to find a city center but with no success (or probably we did find it, it just did not look like a city center), but at least we enjoy cappuccino and cake in a nice coffee shop, provided with some toys for children. I have to say, in this regards, Iceland is very family friendly. Every coffee shop or restaurant has at least something for the little ones: draw material, toys or even a fully equipped childrens' room with every possible toy in it (I was very surprised that even a little but delicious restaurant in Reykjavik, the Sea Baron - if you go there try the lobster soup and the grill spears with salmon or whale - , had a childrens room).

Anyway, back to our Day 6.

Afterwards decided to drive to (I had to check the name on google maps) Deildartunguhver, a hot spring in Reykholtsdalur. After seing the Geysir part near Gullfoss during our first holiday in Iceland, I have to say these were disappointing.

We decide to go for dinner in Borgarnes, at the Settlement Center Restaurant: just fantastic! And also our little boy enjoyed his pizza margherita 😋

On the way back to Bifröst (Brrrr) we stop at, as my husband and I call it,  "Gianni" waterfall, (actually the name is Glanni - probably just the two of us understand the joke) for a QUICK drone flight over it (I don't know how many QUICK drone flights we had during the all journey , probably in total about 80 hours... - still love my husband 😉)

Day 7

Bifröst - akureyri

Finally: we leave Bifröst! (sorry Bifröst residents or students - even the outdoor pool didn't help in making us like the place). First time we go to the North without going to the West Fjords ( we would have liked it but first, there was no time and second: we were scared our son could jump down in the sea at Latrabjarg). The weather is quite nice and for lunch we stop at Hvammstangi, which is known for its seals center and its wool production ( we did not see any seals and did not buy any lopapeysa, but had a delicious grilled salmon). 
After several drone stops, we reach our hotel in Akureyri and leave our luggages in a super designed deluxe room with bedroom, leaving room and toilet (by the way: why a toilet with an open ceiling in the room? I know my husband since quite a while but I would like to keep my toilet moments for myself - so my husband has to stay out of the room; with my son instead I share everything).
We go to the city center and take a chai latte at te of kaffi, which is inside a book store: it's totally nice to sit there, drink something and discover some new books (in German and English too) and also our little one enjoy the childrens' ones (in Icelandic - for him the pictures count - and I learn some new words - and the fact that my Icelandic is less than the one of a 2 years old).
Later we have dinner at Rub23 with some Sushi (our son loves avocado maki) and fall asleep relatively early.

Day 8

Akureyri - Dettifoss - Husavik

Wake up late and after a wonderful breakfast, with huge quantities of selfmade pancakes, we drive to Dettifoss: the weather is amazing and our little one dances to the music in his car seat. We decide not to stop at Godafoss (which we already know from last time) and drive the 150 km to the most powerful waterfall in Europe. 

We park the car on the west bank (the best road, the other one on the east bank is a gravel road) and for the first time see the "no drone" sign in our life: my husband feels lost! (and I feel relieved). Concerning drone flights in Iceland: birds don't like them, so watch out if you do not want your drone to come back home in more than one piece.

Our son doesn't want to jump in his baby carrier backpack (we used it twice during the all holiday and after it sold it - we actually had to know, he wants his freedom since his birth), so we walk to the waterfall, waiting for him every now and then to jump into the next puddle. In 2013, as my husband and I (we were not parents yet) went to Dettifoss, the weather was awful and we gave a quick look and run back to the car. This time the waterfall welcomes us with sun and rainbow. We then go back and drive up to Husavik (no whale watching for us this time) to the next hotel and to have dinner.

We have a fish soup as a starter and I try as main course Plokkfiskur (mashed fish & potatoes to be eaten with rye bread), my husband unfortunately grill spears with cod; actually we still do not know if it was the fish soup (in mine there was almost no fish, my husband's one was full of it) or the grill spear with cod, but the result for my husband was a night spent at the toilet and a couple of days feeling dizzy with nausea (I won't mention the restaurant's name, no way).

So I fall asleep totally worried about him, after he (is a neurologist) tells me "If I start behaving strange, bring me to the nearest hospital, should actually be at the end of the street, right?" - ok, well, goodnight then.

Day 9

HUSAVIK - Myvatn

Next day we wake up late, my husband is still dizzy with nausea, so we check out of the hotel later than allowed and receive a call 1 min after check out time telling us to leave the room (I explain the lady at the reception that my husband is feeling bad but she doesn't care so much). So I take all our luggages, bring them to the car and drive my family to the next hotel in the Myvatn area. We are too early for checking in, but the guy at the reception understands the situation and let us check in 2 hours in advance (thanks God not everyone is like at the hotel in Husavik!). My husband lays in bed and I decide to go for an afternoon trip with my little man. In the car I sing "We are going on a trip, just the two of us, in Iceland!", being alone with my child abroad makes me feel like I live here and I like it :) First we go to Grjotagja cave, a small lava cave with a thermal spring inside. Until 1975 people used to bathe in it, but after some eruptions, the temperature of the water in the cave rose above 50 degrees, making it more suitable to cook pasta than to bathe. I go in with my son in the baby carrier backpack (one of the few days we manage to use it, is today) and the atmosphere is just magic, no wonder it was used as a location for "Game of Thrones".

Afterwards we proceed for a walk at Dimmuborgir, kind of a tower-like lava field. In Icelandic folklore this area is said to connect earth with the infernal regions (maybe that's why my son in the meanwhile starts becoming a little Satan and doesn't want anything anymore: he doesn't want to be in the baby carrier backpack but doesn't want to walk, it's hungry but doesn't want to eat and in the little coffee bar at the entrance starts touching and taking whatever the souvenir shop has to offer).

We drive back to the hotel, where my husband still lays in the bed as we left him.

For dinner my son and I enjoy the buffet meal at the hotel, my husbands just take a couple of spoons. Time for sleep, let's hope tomorrow my husband will do better.

Day 10

Myvatn

The day starts slowly as usual, my husband is feeling a bit better and we go to Grjotagja cave again, because I think this is something my husband should have seen.

Afterwards we walk up Hverfjall crater, east of Myvatn lake (son in the baby carrier backpack again!Don't know how I managed to walk up with him on my shoulders, it's a short walk, but when your weight is all of a sudden 10 Kg more you feel the difference).

We then drive to Vogafjos, which is an hotel with a very nice restaurant on the east side of Myvatn: I get e great Burger (with the meat from the cows they have there in the farm), my poor husband just tries a baked potato, his stomach is not yet ready for more. We then spend the late afternoon sleeping, all the three of us in a huge bed: that's the best of the best, when you fall asleep breathing in the breath of your child peacefully sleeping :)

Day 11

Myvatn - Höfn

Today we have 360 km in front of us to reach the next destination: Höfn. Since my husband is not yet fit, I decide to drive myself all the way down and bring my family safe to the famous port city in the south of Iceland. The drive is long and every now and then we stop for a drone flight (some of them are in our wedding video). For lunch I get a delicious reindeer burger (sorry reindeer but you are delicious) in Egilsstadir: Egilsstadir is the main city in the East of Iceland, along the Lagarfljot river. Apart from eating I wouldn't suggest to stop there, it's really nothing special (sorry Egilsstadir inhabitants!).

Near the city there is the Lagarfljot lake which is known for the Lagarfljot worm monster, kind of the scottish Loch Ness one  but "wormier". Sightings have been logged since 1345 and continue until 2012. Here the link to some photos Link

We don't have the chance to meet the celebrity of the lake and continue our way to the South. At a certain point the ring road becomes a gravel road and the fog is everywhere: when I'm stressed I start singing stupid made up songs, this time is " Isch voll lustig (=it's totally funny), foggy gravel road!" and this becomes our running gag for the rest of the travel.

We reach our guest house in the evening and cook dinner: it's nice after such a long time to have the luxury of a kitchen, although it's a shared one. The guesthouse is simple but clean and we relax on our big bed while our son watches Heidi on HIS tablet (my husband bought it, I am totally against super technologic stuff in this age, although I have to say this tablet saved the situation many times). The magic light outside bring us out of the guesthouse to the shore and we enjoy a magical hour in this golden air, seeming to paint everyone and everything with a brilliant gold powder. And in these moments I cannot help but thinking: thanks God.

Day 12

Jökullsarlon

Third time at Jökull Sarlon, the famous glacier lagoon in the south of Iceland, where the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier tongue melts and meets the 1.5 Km far ocean. This place is never the same, every day new ice blocks detaching from the glacier create a new wonderful scenery and the sun/clouds/rain play with the landscape giving every day a different touch. In 2013 when we were on the boat tour I asked the guide " Do you ever get bored of your job?" and he said " No, never: working here is a priviledge, every day Jökullsarlon shows me a new face".

Our son is not in a nice mood at the beginning and just starts crying out loud for no real reason. But after a while we start throwing stones into the lagoon and he enjoys too this fabulous place. We then walk towards the ocean to see if our eyes can spot some seals but no luck this time. Instead we play sculptors with the ice blocks laying on the black beach, our little one thinks it's amazing and I notice again how much his presence in my life is a wonderful gift: thanks to him I discover the world with new eyes, I try things which I would never do without him and I'm also braver with him on my side.

The day is relaxed, we stop now and then on the way back to Höfn and then go for dinner at our favourite icelandic restaurant, Pakkhus, where we eat a huge portion of langoustine tails and the delicious dessert Skyr volcano. Again, as the day before, when we go outside after dinner, the air is golden: sun and clouds play together creating a surreal atmosphere and make us part of the landscape, part of the blue ocean, part of the golden fields, part of the glacier.

Day 13

skaftafell national park

The holiday starts coming to an end and I already feel the pain of leaving my "by choice" home country, although we still have some wonderful days in front of us.

On the way to Skaftafell National Park we stop at

Day 14

fjadrargljufur Canyon - BLACK BEach - dyrholaey - HELLA

Our next destination is Fjadrargljufur, with its about 100 meters deep and about two kilometres long canyon. It's the first time we go there and we are full of expectations and I have to say: the place is magnificent. While my husbands flies his drone through the canyon I try to save my son from the abyss; he runs in every direction but his favourite game is: run up a little hill and then roll down (to the precipice) and in these endless minutes I get some few white hairs on my head.

Looking down we notice few people at the bottom of the canyon, crossing the river with bare feet to reach the other shore and come further. Unfortunately we cannot even think of doing something like that with our little one, so we drive further to Vik.

We stop by the Black Beach and play hand in hand with our son to follow/escape the waves, later we go to Reynisfjara beach.

At this point the little one is not happy about life anymore: 

-he's hungry, but doesn't want to eat

-he wants to walk outside but be in the car

So we do the only thing possible: one of us stays with him and tries to deal with his existential crisis, whereas the other one goes for a walk and the other way round. So we don't' manage to take the typical photos on the basalt columns with our bodies on them 🙃

Our final destination of the day, before going to the next hotel, is Dirholaey. We hope to show our son puffins (whose name he can already pronounce since he likes them so much from photos) since apart from Latrabjarg in the West Fjords this is in our experience the best spot to see them.

As we go out of the car and look at the cliff: no puffin 😩

We are already super disappointed when a few of them appear! Our son is out of himself ! And there, in this wonderful place, a nice Italian lady take the best family photo we ever had.

Very late we reach our guesthouse near Hella and when we say our son it's time to go to bed he tells us: "Auto?" (=car) so we realize we changed hotel so often that he thinks his home is now the car: poor little one! We then decide to put him between us in bed and he falls asleep quickly (hopefully he thought mummy and daddy around him are home enough!)

Day 15

gjain - Lekafossar - landmannalaugar

I actually wanted to go to Thorsmork (which after many holidays in Iceland we still didn't see), but since we couldn't go with our own car (too deep river crossing) and the jeep tours don't accept baby seats (at least so we understood) we decide instead to go back (we've already been there in 2012) to Landmannalaugar. I wake up in a totally bad mood (I guess because the day after tomorrow we are gonna fly back to Switzerland - I didn't even have to stop myself from writing "back home", it just came out "back to Switzerland", that must mean something) and altough my husband tries to support me and make me smile nothing works, I just feel terrible. But then on the way to Landmannalaugar my husbands sees a plate with the name "Gjan" on it and suggests spontaneously to make a short stop and give a look.

We drive on a gravel road for about 20 min, we get out of the car and there it is, middle in nowhere: a phantastic natural garden, with small rivers and a waterfall. The air smells of flowers and the flowing waters sing a melody for us. I'm feeling happy again, the nature, the power you feel in this country is just incomparable.

After refreshing our soul we drive further to Lekafossar. We discovered these waterfalls in 2012 thanks to a guy that, instead of helping us in finding a place where we can let our car have a checkup ( since it's showing a strange yellow sign we don't understand), draws a map to explain us where these wonderful waterfalls are.

Later in the afternoon we reach Landmannalaugar: we park before reaching the camping site since there is a river crossing and we do not want to risk with our rented car. We walk to the beginning of the trail and stop to caress the horses: I think it's the first time I do that in my life, my son would like to caress them but is afraid and so I show him there is nothing to be afraid of.

Again, thanks to him, I make new experiences and acquire more contact to myself: my son is my best teacher in life. We would like to walk further but our little one doesn't want to at all, not in the baby carrier backpack, not by walking: my husband is upset, I try to take it relaxed and enjoy throwing stones into the river with our son. We do not do what we planned but I enjoy the majestic landscape in another way and I am even grateful for that: when you become a parent you give a lot of freedom up but you win more and more in experiences, never-ending love and a lot of laugh.

After three hours spent there we drive back to our guesthouse, but not without a stop for dinner at another hotel/restaurant: the service is slow, the meal (grilled salmon) modest and the little one doesn't want to sit in there for more than 10 min: so I eat whereas my husband is outside with him and the other way round. Once the three of us are all together outside we enjoy the sunset and we run up and (roll) down the hill, laughing about the new word our little one starts using when running/rolling down: " Piano piano" (=slowly slowly).

Back at the guesthouse, my husband and I plan to use the common guesthouse's outdoor Jacuzzi the next morning, while the little one is still sleeping.

Day 16

HELLA - REYKJAVIK

Next morning, alarm set at 8 o' clock, my husband and I go for breakfast after setting up the babyphone. It's nice to be just the two of us. We then go back to the room to put our swimming suits on and then it happens: our son wakes up and has neither intention to sleep any further, nor wants to come into the Jacuzzi with us (thanks a lot!). So I go first, my husband afterwards.

We leave the guesthouse aroung 12 to reach our last destination of this wonderful travel, the capital city. We get a super nice studio apartment in Laugavegur with view of Hallgrimskirkja and after leaving our luggages and cooking some pasta with pesto for the little one, leave for a little shopping tour.  But our son is not in the mood for shopping, but rather in the mood for freedom: so he doesn't want to follow us anywhere, just wants to go up and down some stairs for half an hour and in the end runs away from us in the middle of Laugavegur. We are so at the end with our nerves that we don't even run or shout, we just follow him and some people believe the little one is alone and start speaking with him asking where mummy and daddy are when we intervene (so here we are: the worst parents ever! When I looked at these scenes before I admit I also thought that of other people, now that I'm in the middle of it I just have compassion, for the others and for myself first!). So we decide to go back to the flat and go separately for the shopping tour ( and what do I buy during mine? a shirt for our son, what else! When he is there he is sometimes unbearable but as soon as he is somewhere else - or even just sleeping - I miss him and just think about him).

Thanks to the tablet with Heidi cartoons saved on it, we enjoy a wonderful dinner for three at the Fish Market and I fall asleep with the heart-breaking feeling I'm going to leave my "by choice"-home country tomorrow.

Day 17

REYKJAVIK -zürich

Every time I leave Iceland it's really heartbreaking but this time even more: we got married, we brought our son for the first time to the country of our dreams and we take such wonderful memories back with us. But actually I do not realize how much leaving Iceland is difficult for me until it's time for boarding: as we walk to the gate I start crying and crying and cannot stop.

My husband tries to support me, my son looks at me very seriously with "doggy" eyes but I cannot stop crying. And the pain grows even more when we take off and I see the country from above disappering slowly from my view. And I promise myself to find a plan, a plan which will allow me/us to come back...and stay.