Iceland 2013

July - August

The joy of being back home
The joy of being back home

Day 1

Zürich - keflavik - blue lagoon

Finally: Iceland I'm coming back! This time we have a direct flight from Zurich to Reykjavik and in the end we have decided to start our holidays with some relax: so first thing we are doing is going to the Blue Lagoon and stay there for a night. Since our flight was delayed we go directly to dinner at the Lava Restaurant but afterwards enjoy the tranquillity and peace of the hotel private blue lagoon. Just great!

Day 2

blue lagoon - reykjavik

Waking up in Iceland is always great! I look outside at the lava fields covered with moss and even if it's cloudy, the view is just majestic!

After breakfast with"smjor"and"ostur" we pack our few things and drive to Reykjavik.
I like Reykjavik but I'm looking forward to be in the nature. We spend the day strolling around and I find a super nice sheep plush toy, which will become our mascot of the trip, even more photographed than my own partner! We have dinner at Grillmarkadurinn, my partner tries the whale, puffin and lingoustine mini burgers, I go for the shell fish soup. Amazing place, trendy and cozy at the same time.

Day 3

reykjavik - hellnar

Back here in Hellnar, this place has something spiritual for me: it’s the only place on earth where I can find my own center. We go for a walk along the beach to Arnarstapi and later see some whales from our hotel’s terrace.

Day 4

hellnar - stykkisholmur - patreksfjördur

Our trip goes on, today we are finally going to further explore Iceland (compared to our previous trip), our next stop are the West Fjords. 

We drive to Stykkisholmur in the early afternoon and take the ferry to Brjanslaekur. The weather is gorgeous and we enjoy the sun on the deck and the spectacular view of the Fjords and of the little islands we encounter during the navigation: one of them is quite famous, it’s called Flatey (meaning flat island, very original 😒) and is well known for its bird life (puffins included) and for being in the past one of the main cultural centers of Iceland. Nowadays the total fix population (in winter as well as in summer) is 5 people 😳. Once again on the ground, we drive to our hotel to Patreksfjordur. The town is empty and pretty sad, but the Fjord is terrific.

Day 5

latrabjarg - raudasandur -dynjandi -isafjördur

Today we have a very full plan, with many stops before heading and sleeping in Isafjordur, the biggest city in the West Fjords.
First we drive to Látrabjarg, the weather is beautiful but as soon as we drive the gravel road up the hill before reaching Látrabjarg it gets extremely foggy, and I am the one driving 😳
We do not see much around us until we reach our destination. Làtrabjarg is incredible: the sound and the smell of the sea, the colors around us (super blue sea, super green grass) and them, the puffins!
We have seen them already last year but I did not think we could get even closer to them this time (as you see in the picture).
Afterward we drive to Raudasandur, hoping to see some seals, but we have no luck. Instead on the way there we discover a little cafe with view of a sand/grass landscape + sea view , where sheeps just enjoy the beach life, I will always keep this memory into my mind.

Day 6

isafjördur - holmavik

As we planned this day in our flat in Zurich we did not really realized how long it takes from Isafjordur to Holmavik ( the village with the witches museum) 😕 the original plan was to take a boat trip to Hornstrandir

Nature Reserve (or at least to look at it from the coast). The boat would have brought us to Hesteyri, known for being a scenery of the novel "Someone To Watch Over Me" (by Yrsa Sigurðardóttir) and since I read the book I am actually not quite unhappy not to go there, the story is really creepy.

Instead, we drive along the fjords and decide to take a walk just past after Melgraseyri, where an arm of the glacier comes down. It is a very surreal atmosphere, we are totally alone...no cars, no people, just us and the nature....we leave "a sign of our presence" in this spectacular scenery in form of a stone tower (see picture above) and reach later in the evening the foggy Holmavik (see picture below), where we enjoy a tasty whale steak with pumpinks and potatoes.

Day 7

holmavik - akureyri

330 Km in front of us today, but we take it easy and relaxed as usual.

This morning the fog is gone and Holmavik shows us its colourful side. We have breakfast outside at Holmakaffi and leave the nice litte town around 12.

On the way to Akureyri we stop in Hvammstangi, Kolugljúfur Canyon and many other times to take pictures of the wonderful landscape.

We reach Akureyri in the late afternoon and treat ourselves to a a delicious meal in Restaurant Strikið.

This evening/night we see a wonderful midnight sunset from our hotel room.

Day 8

Godafoss - ALDEYJARFOSS - husavik

A nice day to start exploring this region of Iceland we never visited before! After some well tasting but bad looking pancakes we start our daily trip: first stop is just near the ring road, Godafoss (meaning waterfall of gods). The water of the river Skjálfandafljót falls from a height of 12 meters and forms this waterfall. Later we reach Aldeyjarfoss: to do so you have to drive a little bit of an F road but in summer is no problem. This waterfall is not very famous but is in my opinion one of the most beautiful in Iceland (see photo): the contrast between the black basalt columns and the white waters is incredible!

 

Later we reach Husavik for a whale watching tour: after having been disappointed in such a tour in Tenerife (I know, it's totally somewhere else) we take this tour with little hope. Minutes passes and no whale at the horizon; but then, all of a sudden, there it is!

First we see one junping at the horizon and later another one just comes up near our boat and we follow it for 15 min. Just amazing!

Day 9

myvatn area

Myvatn, translated" the lake of midges" (and OMG, yes there were!), is a lake situated not far from Krafla volcano and the surrounding wetlands are reach in animals, especially birds like ducks (if you are interested there is a bird museum in the north of the Lake, Sigurgeirs Birds Museum). There's a lot to see but for today we decide to visit Hverir (in the photo below), Krafla and the Leirhnjukur area (last eruption in the 80s) , where the ground is completely new and still steaming.

In the evening we decide to go to  Myvatn Nature Baths (smaller than the famous Blue Lagoon but just as beautiful and cozier) but first we need something to eat: every restaurant around the lake (not that there are soooo many) is full of people so in the end we buy some essentials (like Hangikjot and Flatkökur) and eat it in front of the lagoon's entrance: not a candle light dinner but pretty effective 😉 And in the end we enjoy the warm water and the foggy landscape and all the fatigue is forgotten 😃 A pretty amazing day!

Day 10

myvatn

Today we stay, visit and walk aroung the south shores of the Lake. I sprayed myself with an anti-midge spray but they do not seem to care (or they even seem to like it!). Joking aside: there are midges but it's not unbearable! Annoying but not dangerous 😊
In the afternoon we discover a farm/hotel on the east shore of the lake, it's called Vogafjos. We enjoy a delicious burger while looking at the cow relatives of it!

We then go relatively early to sleep since tomorrow we have a long day with a lot of kilometeres in front of us.

Day 11

myvatn - dettifoss - asbyrgi - breiddalsvik

We are heading to Dettifoss, the biggest (for volume) and most powerful waterfall in Iceland. It's pouring cats and dogs, we choose the west side road to reach it (also because we just follow the signs and do not imagine there is a east access, which is by the way a gravel road). The weather is so bad we do not have even time to take a photo or to walk down to reach its base. The water volume is impressive, grey and powerful. We hope we will have another chance in the near future to enjoy it with a sunny sky. Our road brings us then to Asbyrgi, a glacial canyon about 30 Km up north. It takes us long enough to reach it since it's a gravel road (surprise! 🤪) but at least the weather is getting better and when we finally reach it the rain has stopped.

Asbyrgi is a horseshoe-shaped depression formed by a glacial flooding of the river Jökulsa a Fjollum (the same forming Dettifoss) after the last Ice Age. The river has since changed its course and now runs about 2 km to the east. The legend says the canyon was formed when Odin's eight-legged horse Sleipnir touched the ground with one of its feet.

The canyon is full of trees, some natural, some introduced in the XXth century. From the parking lot near the camping we walk to Botnstjorn, a pond at the northest end of the canyon.

Later we walk back till we reach a point on the west side where there are some ropes to climb up the canyon: it's pretty steep and I wonder how we will climb down later...😒

We walk and walk and enjoy the wonderful view with every single step even if there is still a drizzling rain.

Later we find a way to go back to the car without having to climb down 😅

And we drive the long 280 Km to Breiðdalsvík where we arrive late in the evening. Tomorrow we will go up Europe's biggest glacier,the Vatnajökull.

Day 12

F985: vatnajökull glacier snow mobile tour

Today we are going on the top of the Vatnajökull glacier with a snowmobile!

We booked a tour with Glacierjeeps and we will meet at 2 p.m. to go up the road F985.
As we meet at the beginning of the road, we decide to go up the road with our own car, since it's a 4 wheel drive. Even if you do not want to do the snowmobile tour it is worth to go up to the glacier, the landscapes are breathtaking!

The tour lasts about 3 hours although you spend"just" an hour on the snowmobile. It's a nice tour and I'm lucky my partner can drive the Skidoo because my try (in the photo it is before trying) is not very successful 😒

It is recommended to wear jumper, sunglasses and gloves, the rest you get from the tour operator.
To get a further idea of how it looks like up there give a look at the tour operator photo session here.

 

 

Day 13

Jökullsarlon boat tour

Jökullsarlon is the famous glacier lagoon in the South, nobody should miss it if going to Iceland. There are even organized bus tour leaving from Reykjavik (for details give a look at Reykjavik Excursions, they are very good and even pick you up at your hotel).

If you visit Iceland in August, a great idea is to plan a stay near Jökullsarlon middle of August to see the fireworks (the date changes every year, here some details).
The glacier lagoon is situated at the head of the Breidamerkurjökull glacier (part of the Vatnajökull) and it developed into a lake after the glacier started receding from the Ocean.

White/blue icebergs slowly drift to the Ocean creating a magic and steadily changing scenery. If you are lucky you may see sometimes seals swimming in it (you can see them especially between the bridge and the Ocean if you go for a walk on the black sand beach).
Today we are going for a boat tour bringing us till the edge of the Breidamerkurjökull tongue (we choose the Zodiac tour to get closer to it). The weather is super sunny, even too much (i like the glacier lagoon more when it's a bit cloudy and in sunrise/sunset atmosphere, when the light plays more with the icebergs' colour). I am totally fascinated from the lagoon and I start to speak with our guide and ask him tons of questions, one of which is "What do you like about your job?" and he answers with a bright smile "I am in love with this place, it is always and never the same". Well, what can I say more? It's the same for me ❤️

We spend the night in my favourite hotel, which is just after Skogafoss, it's called Welcome Edinborg, and it is at the feet of Eyafjallajökull. It is super simple, cozy and friendly and in the middle of nowhere: I love it! 😃

Day 14

eyafjallajökull - keflavik

Last day before leaving: OMG I do not want to! 😢

On the way to Reykjavik we spontaneously decide to find out where the plane wreck we saw in some photos is. After googling around we find out it is on Solheimasandur, still have to find out exactly where...but in the end we find the coordinates in a blog! 😃🎉 (God bless the blogger!)
As we are inside the plane I wonder how many people died in this crash...but fortunately I read that everyone in the plane survived (the incident actually happened in 1973, when this US plane ran out of fuel).
As we are taking the last pictures a car comes and parks near the plane...well, well 😒..some tourists have no respect, neither for the others nor for the landscape 😡
We then spend the evening in Reykjavik and go to bed early in a magic little bed&breakfast near the airport since our flight is early in the morning tomorrow...the bed & breakfast seems to be created from (or inhabited) from fairies and it has a natural warm pool outside in the garden: the perfect way to relax and to say goodbye to Iceland!

Day 15

keflavik - zürich

What to say...I miss you already Iceland, see you soon! 👍